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Klinkhåmer Special
by
Hans Van Klinken
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The dressing
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| Hook: |
Partridge GRS15ST, size 8-18 for grayling and trout.
Partridge CS54 size 6 and 4 for salmon |
| Thread: |
Uni-thread, 8/0, grey or tan for body. Spiderweb for
parachute |
| Body: |
Poly 2 dubbing any colour of preference |
| Wing: |
One of to 3 strands of white poly-yarn depending of the size
and water to fish |
| Thorax: |
Three strands of peacock herl |
| Hackle: |
Blue dun, dark dun, light dun, chestnut all in good
combination with the body colour.
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flies tied on the CS 54 I double the amount of Poly yarn, Peacock
herl and hackle windings. | |
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THE
TYING TECHNIQUE: |
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Step 1:
For the CS54 it is necessary to reshape the hook between
thumb and forefinger. Place the hook in the vice and wrap the entire
shank with the tying thread. This avoids the difficulty of a
slipping wing when the fly is finished. Cut off a strand of
poly-yarn and taper the tip with your scissors before tying in; this
is to be sure the underbody will be as slim as possible. Secure the
yarn onto the top of the hook shank with the thread at the position
shown in the drawing.
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Step 2:
Wrapping your thread down to the bend and
backwards.
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Step 3:
Try to make a nice tapered under body. I like a slim and
well-tapered under body. Be very critical in this stage! The better
the under body the more beautiful the completed fly.
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Step 4:
Tie in the hackle so it lies in the same orientation as the
yarn. Form an upright wing by tying up the yarn and hackle. This is
to be sure you have no problems with the hackle in the other tying
steps. | |
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Step 5:
Apply a small amount of dubbing to the thread. Take as
much dubbing just to cover the under body. Tie the body very
slim and well tapered. Start as close to the barb as possible. The
thinner the body the more successful the pattern. Wind it along the
shank and stop just behind the wing and cut off surplus poly or use
the last piece of dubbing as underground for the thorax. In that
situation it is not really necessary to cut off surplus. I recommend
trying both techniques because for some people it is much easier to
produce a better-looking thorax when you have made an under
body. |
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Step 6:
Tie in three peacock herl fibres. You can also tie the
strands in at their tips, this will help you to create a much nicer
thorax. I secure the strands well also behind the wing. This
provides that the thorax will come
off. | |
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Step 7:
TIE OFF and varnish.
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ATTENTION NOW!
TAKE YOUR
BOBBIN WITH SPIDERWEB.
Step 8:
Now turn the hook in the vice, so that the wing is
horizontal, with the bend uppermost. Grasping the tuft of poly-yarn,
put on the spiderweb, wind several turns around the base of the
poly-yarn and create a rigid wing base on which to wind the
hackle. | |
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Step 9:
Wind the hackle around the base. Start at the top of your
wing base, taking each successive turn closer to the hook
shank. Take as many turns as the type of hook requires. Small
flies about 5 windings and bigger flies at least 7 or 8 windings.
Remember that the fly has to float mainly on the parachute. A lot of
people wind their hackle in the opposite way, working up the wing,
the hackle is less durable and may still come off. When you work
from top downwards it ensures a compact well-compressed hackle and a
most durable construction. Pulling the hackle tip to the opposite
direction as the wing and secure with a few turns of spiderweb.
Secure well around the base of the wing between the wound hackle and
body. Using your whip finisher. Trim away the waste hackle tip and
hackle fibres that are pointed down. Take your varnish applicator
and apply some lacquer on the windings just under the
parachute.
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Step 10:
The completed fly! | |
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